An iconic hairstyle is more than just a recognizable style, it’s a cultural symbol that represents a certain era, think the 1920s bob or the ‘80s mullet. It’s a style that keeps coming back…or never truly leaves, think about the evolution of the pixie and the many variations of long organic layers.
Vivienne Mackinder, former Artistic Director for industry grand masters such as Vidal Sassoon and Trevor Sorbie, believes there are 12 iconic hairstyles every stylist should master to gain inspiration and confidence behind the chair.
“It’s hard to be happy if you’re not making any money and you’re afraid to cut hair short,” says Mackinder. “When you’re happy, you make more money! It’s a fact!”
The Top 12 Hairstyles Every Stylist Should Master
- Classic Bob
- Lob with Ghost Layers
- Glass Leveled Bob
- Graduated Layered Bob
- Classic Graduation
- Soft Graduated Layers
- Classic Round Graduation
- California Long Layers
- Glam Layers
- Wolf Cut
- Soft Layers
- Pixie
Mackinder shares her precision techniques and eye for designing in a 12 Week Haircutting Challenge, an immersive tour of technical refinement, creative growth, and intentional practice both solo and with a community, guided each week by Mckinder herself. Rooted in Action-Based LearningÔ, a three-part learning process – Learn, Practice and Master, it’s a modern approach to discovery that blends technology and human interaction.
- Learn: Live interactive training through live virtual workshops.
- Practice: Recreate the look in a live class with others and get real-time coaching and feedback from Mackinder and a sense of community.
- Master: Post work and receive personalized guidance from Mackinder to elevate skills to the next level.
“The 12 Week Challenge focuses on the 3 ways to cut hair; horizontally for strong lines, vertically for soft lines and diagonally for a rounded effect… and we explore each of these concepts with clippers, razors and shears, while focusing on an in-depth consultation, so stylists can master not only how to do the cut, but also who it will look best on,” explains Mackinder. For instance:
The Classic Bob – This iconic foundational hairstyle has endless variations depending on the tools used, the face shape, body type, personality and lifestyle. It suits almost any age and can be styled in multiple ways. It’s especially great for those with longer hair who want to try a shorter length before taking the jump into super short hair.
Tools
- Scissors will create precision clean lines.
- Use Clippers for speed and a sleek, graphic edge.
- A Razor will create softness and modern fluidity.
Mackinder addresses how to adapt the bob’s density, length, and line to suit age, face shape, body type, and personality, ensuring the result is not only technically perfect but fashion-forward.
Face Shape & Body Type Insights
- Shorter Bobs = more dramatic, edgy, and fashion driven.
- Best suited for oval and rectangular face shapes
- Best suited for banana body types, avoid a hard square line on apple or pear body shape, it will emphasize horizontal width. Instead, soften or angle the line for balance.
The Three Wheels of Fashion – every style must harmonize with:
- Drama Level – Quiet elegance or high-impact statement?
- Fashion Personality – Traditional sophistication or edgy trendsetter?
- Feminine Energy – Strong and bold or soft and romantic?
“This isn’t just about cutting a line, it’s about infusing fashion, lifestyle, and personality into every detail, creating a bob that feels as fresh today as it did when it first made history,” says Mackinder.
“Mackinder’s biggest fear as a young stylist at Vidal Sassoon in London was that a client would ask for a style that she could not do, and that fear made her a lifelong learner and teacher. “And while I love a good makeover, witnessing the deep transformation of a hairdresser mastering their craft, both creatively and financially, is mind-blowing,” adds Mackinder.
The next 12 Week Challenge starts on September 16th, stylists interested in learning the secrets behind cutting and styling the top 12 cuts every stylist should know and who they will look best on can learn more here.